Our Miss Clothilda is a big girl and putting a warp on her can seem like a daunting task. Here is part one of my step by step process. It shows a little bit on how I use my raddle that has the cup hook tie on bar holder, but doesn’t show it well. I has a little too much front tension on this warp to show that well. The moral of the story is, like Project Runway, when warping, make it work!
First, you need the warp, raddle and tie on bar. I have 474 ends of 4/2 cotton here. My raddle is based on one in one of Peggy Osterkamp books that uses eyelets instead of nails so it needs no cap or rubber bands. I’ve put the lease sticks through the warp and tied them to the castle. I’ve also put a temporary tie on bar through the warp end loops. This is only to keep the loop while I spread the warp through the raddle and will be replaces later so it is only tied on the very ends and will bend a bit.
Not I am going to load the raddle sections. I’ve made a raddle cross in my warps so this goes pretty quickly. I use my knitting blocking wires through the eyes of the raddle to hold the threads in place while winding.
Now, if I were winding on to a plain warp beam that had an attached rod/apron, at this point, I would put that rod in the cup hooks and tie the loaded tie on rod to it. Then I’d be ready to wind. You can see how that would work in this next picture.
I have a sectional warp beam though. I could tie the beam cords onto a second tie on rod and tie them together like above, but to be honest, I’m short one tie on rod of being able to pull that off for this warp. So, I’m going to replace the temporary tie on rod with a new one, adding the beam cords as I go. I have 2″ sections, so one cord every 2″. For a warp that I plan on using less tension with, I would probably skip every other section and tie it every 4″, but I’m going to use every beam cord on this one.
I just continue right to left picking up 2″ worth of warp off the temp rod and then adding a beam cord until I’m all the way across. Then I slide out the original rod and take up the slack in the beam cords.
From here, the thing to remember is you have to move the tie up rod over the cup hooks. Once it is past them, the hooks don’t interfere with beaming anymore than the raddle separators do and less than the sectional dividers.
Since this is a Macomber and all the beams fold up and down, the front beam makes a great tool to help tension the warp as you wind it on.
And here is the warp beamed and ready to be set up for threading.
The raddle lease sticks are still in it and will remain until I have the threading lease sticks ready to go. Threading will happen tomorrow.